Benefits of a Chemical Peel and What to Expect
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Chemical peels get a bad rap. I know that the initial peels created were in fact troubling, but they have come a long way from what you saw on Samantha in Sex and the City. I hope this post gets you thinking about what they can actually be like and how you might benefit from one!
Note that I have only received light chemical peel treatments, so that’s the perspective I’ll be coming from. You can get light chemical peels every 2-5 weeks, medium chemical peels a maximum 4 times a year, and deep chemical peels few and far between.
I got my first chemical peel on January 2, 2020. It took less than 15 minutes and I was on my way. Given how scary a lot of publications have made them out to be, I was honestly surprised! You do have to be smart about them, but I think you should be inquisitive about facial treatments in general. I always joke that “no, I don’t want a Groupon facial”, because my face is worth it to me to make sure it is the real deal. No offense to Groupon, but I reserve their services for things like food and products. Don’t get me wrong - I love a good discount if a salon is offering one ;)
ANYWAY, since January 2nd I have received 2 additional peels (every 3 weeks), and had just decided to try out going every 4 weeks when COVID-19 / Coronavirus hit. For that reason. I haven’t had one since March 10. I have been seeing Maddie with Corrective Skincare LA since last November, and I have grown to trust her and her recommendations. After my first two sessions, she suggested we move to a couple extractions and a light chemical peel. So what does that entail?
WHAT IS A CHEMICAL PEEL
A chemical peel is a controlled injury to the skin. It is simply a mixture of different acids that are applied to the face, dried and left on. They cause the body to slough off dead skin by exfoliating rapidly, revealing a new layer of skin that is brighter and often age-defying.
BENEFITS OF A CHEMICAL PEEL
Controlled injury? Why would you ever do that to your skin?! I know it sounds scary, but there are actually a lot of realized benefits if it’s done correctly. Here are a few:
dry out active acne
dislodge blackheads
reduce newer wrinkles
lighten scarring and dark spots
reverse sun damage
absorb products more readily
WHY IS IT CALLED A PEEL
The name “chemical peel” is confusing. As you’ll see in my photos (below) during the peel, you can’t really see any “peeling” actually occurring… Whether it is visible or not, anytime you put an acid on your face or use any kind of “peel” product”, your body is actively sloughing off dead skin more rapidly than its normal rate. This is where the PEEL name comes in.
It’s a conflicting name because not only may you not see actual peeling, but if you do, you are NOT supposed to peel it off with your fingers. Why the heck would they tempt us with such a name?! I meannnnn… I do understand I guess, because a benefit of a peel is ridding your skin of dead skin cells. Those dead skin cells can clog pores and cause acne. Get it?
After taking a closer look, I have noticed small groupings of dead skin after receiving a professional peel, but they aren’t really something you can see unless you look very closely. The large skin particles I have been able to see are those surrounding a healing pimple. Be sure to just let these slough off naturally and don’t pick them, as this could actually cause scarring.
I know it’s weird to do a peel and not really see any dead skin, but think of your own body. Do you notice when your body regularly sheds its skin every 2-4 weeks? Didn’t think so.
Note that I have only received light peels. You see more peeling with a medium or a deep peel.
TYPES OF ACID
There are a lot of acids on the market, but these are the most commonly used in professional work. You’ll also see these in over the counter products. The light peels I have been receiving have a mixture of salicylic & lactic acids. I wanted to include this info in the post so you knew all the names these acids go by.
AHA (alpha hydroxy acids): Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid
Known to shed the outer layer of skin to improve texture and pigmentation, while also helping firm skin and decrease light wrinkles
Works well with whiteheads, cystic acne, and hormonal acne
BHA (beta hydroxy acids): Salicylic Acid
Known to unclog pores, as it is oil soluble
Sheds the outer layer of skin and can help with light wrinkles and pigmentation
Works well with closed comedones and blackheads
Benzoyl Peroxide is an acid that is touted as an acne fighter because it’s an anti-bacterial; however, a lot of skin is sensitive to it. After all, it is a compound found in bleach… If you want to learn more about benzoyl peroxide, I really like this article comparing it to Salicylic Acid.
I also can’t end this section without discussing retinoids either. You’ve probably heard of retin-a / Tretinoin cream. Derived from vitamin-a, these are harsh products that are often prescribed to defeat acne, as well as promote cell regeneration. While it does have a great success rate, it is also pretty toxic. Note that there are drug store buys that have retinol, but they aren’t as strong as a prescribed retin-a formula. It is pretty much a miracle cream, but at what cost? I’ve heard pretty good reviews of this plant based retinol serum and would suggest trying that instead if you can help it.
The below photo was taken April 25. My last chemical peel was March 10. Taken on my iphone next to natural light. No photoshopping, though I did brighten the image in Lightroom. Notethat when I smile less of my chin acne redness shows. I’m not wearing any makeup here.
Madewell Shirt | Kendra Scott Hoops (c/o)
Okay BUT WHY GET A CHEMICAL PEEL
First of all, shedding skin is normal. The average human sheds their entire outer layer of skin ever 2-4 weeks. A chemical peel is just speeding that process up. Not only is it well known for helping heal acne (something I have been having trouble with), but it is also great for reducing redness and scarring. Since I have such pale skin, no matter how long or short it takes the actual wound to heal the mark is left for months. When chemical peels speed up sloughing, they are speeding up the fading of those marks as well.
Another reason why I chose to do chemical peels is because it helps my acne medications work better. The skin is fresh and ready to absorb the product! So not only does it help rid acne, but it also helps to prevent it. This means you can fight it even harder with your products, as they penetrate the skin more easily.
Note that chemical peels are often more successful on those with lighter hair / skin, so be sure that you trust your professional and do your own research. Additionally, I like to run my products by my estheticians as there are a lot of things to consider regarding products and mixing. While some might be just a waste of money if combined, others could cause further irritation! I really like this article on what are the main products not to mix. I.e. most acids and retinol should not be mixed! I wanted to be sure to include that article, as when one has acne they are willing to try almost anything. I know. I’ve been there! Be smart about what you use and know there isn’t a fast track to getting there. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
WHAT TO EXPECT WHEN YOU GET A CHEMICAL PEEL
Mine actually takes under 15 minutes. Maddie cleanses my face, performs minor extractions, then applies a salicylic & lactic acid solution to my face. During the process, I hold a fan to help with mild tingling and to assist in the drying process. Don’t worry. It doesn’t hurt ;) Here’s the gist:
OVERVIEW OF A CHEMICAL PEEL
During: A slight tingling - nothing crazy
After: It doesn’t feel that much different right after. It feels like a serum dried right on top of your skin vs absorbing into it and feeling nothing.
Days 2-5: Really all it feels is tight. You don’t feel the skin coming off or anything like that. The main thing I noticed was tightness, along with a smooth, softness.
POSSIBLE SIDE EFFECTS
Redness - I didn’t really notice this
Peeling - I didn’t notice this unless I put makeup on. I could see all the dry / dead skin around my chin. Don’t try to peel any dead skin or you could cause scarring.
Tightness - I did experience this.
Side note - if you do deep peels, a small percentage of these sometimes cause scarring.
If you want the down and dirty details, here’s a recap of my first peel experience:
Day 1 - I received the peel in the afternoon. Washed it off before I went to bed. My skin felt slightly tight. Remember that you can’t get your face wet for 2-3 hours.
Day 2 - I woke up with tight and smooth skin. Any big bumps I had were flatter, less red, and less angry. I didn’t wear any makeup and only cleaned my face and iced it (actual ice cube to the face), in both the morning and evening.
Day 3 - I woke to some peeling, but only on areas that had breakouts or pimples. It was very smooth with slight sloughing in the morning, but at night no longer smooth (due to spots of pimples drying out). My face was the tightest this day. I wore sunscreen, as I went on a hike. I cleansed, iced, and used peeling lotion at night.
Day 4 - I woke to nothing new. I only cleansed and iced my face; however, I did wear makeup and noticed that my chin looked extra dry (due to the makeup). It wasn’t any more dry looking than day 3 though. I only cleansed and iced my face this day.
Day 5 - Still nothing new, though I did see some small whiteheads pop up. They weren’t angry at all though. I noticed a little more sloughing of skin. I only cleansed and iced my face this day.
Day 6 - My face was the least tight it had been, but was the most tight in my forehead.. I noticed a couple basic pimples. I only cleansed, iced, and did peeling lotion at night.
Day 7 - I noticed a couple deeper white heads and a large bump on my chin. While I was disappointed to see them pop up, as time went on I did think they healed faster than pimples before my peel. I cleansed and iced my face like normal, but I also incorporated the peel pads this evening for the first time since before the peel.
I applied moisturizer for the first time on day 9. You don’t have to wait this long! I did though.
MY RESULTS
Super soft skin. Nick (my husband) commented on how soft my skin was. It makes sense! You are getting rid of rough, dead skin cells through the peel process.
Brightened complexion. Wow! It brightened my skin and it no longer looked angry and inflamed.
Reduced scarring. My pimple markings have greatly decreased due to chemical peels.
This photo below was taken on the morning of January 2, 2020. I received my first light chemical peel that afternoon.
TIPS FOR AFTER A CHEMICAL PEEL
Follow instructions from your esthetician or dermatologist. They know best, especially because they know specifically how to treat your procedure.
Don’t get it wet for at least 2 hours. You can wash it off after 4 hours, but I’ve always been like why? I just wash it off before I go to bed, as per my usual routine.
Don’t workout until 24 hours after. This isn’t a “must”, but Maddie always recommends it to me. I work out prior to getting the peel; however, I don’t workout the next day. She recommends this, because sweat can cause bacteria, which can cause acne! Your skin is shedding off old skin rapidly, so you don’t want any extra bacteria around to possibly penetrate your new skin layer.
Don’t pick at your skin. It is tempting, but don’t. Leave any dead skin you can actually see alone. If you “peel” off the skin, it can cause scarring.
Use medicine as advised. This is where where you really need to follow your esthetician’s lead! I had to work up to using my acne medication from Corrective Skincare LA daily, in addition to how soon I could use it after the peel. Now I use the peeling lotion the day after my peel, and repeat every other day, until 5 days have passed and I can use it daily again. I can’t use my peel pads until 5 days after the peel, as it would be too much. Though it can be tricky if you use it to soon after the peel, know that you want to get that “super absorption” if you can. The peel allows more of your skin to be exposed to the medicine, which should help your products help you in the long run! Definitely take advantage of this benefit, but as advised.
Don’t use moisturizer for at least 3 days after. This isn’t a “must”, but something I do. I try to avoid moisturizer 5-7 days after the peel, because it can reduce the sloughing of skin… which is what you literally paid money for. Think about it… a moisturizer is used to fix dry skin! Don’t be afraid to use it if you really need it though.
Avoid sun exposure. I have gone on a hike 3 or 4 days after, but wore sunscreen and a hat. Be smart about it if you have to be in the sun.
Wear sunscreen. Even if you aren’t going on something like a hike, a peel makes you more sensitive to sun exposure. You paid good money to have things like sun damage faded, so why would you put your skin in harm’s way that could undue the benefits of your procedure?
These photos were taken on January 2nd after my chemical peel through January 7th, documenting 5 days after my peel.
AT HOME CHEMICAL PEEL OPTIONS
I obviously wouldn’t recommend doing an actual peel at home - I firmly believe that we should leave things like dermaplaning, peels, and microneedling to the professionals; HOWEVER, there are a lot of products out there that act similarly and are home-safe. Dr. Dennis Gross is arguably the first person to do an at-home peel; however, his product rates around a 5 or a 6 on EWG and I try to use a 1 or a 2. Here are some peel-esque products that you can use now!
CLEANSERS
MASKS
Juice Beauty Green Apple Peel (sensitive option available too)
Primally Pure Clarifying Mask (naturally occurring salicylic acid from white willow bark powder! get 10% off with discount code ELLEMULENOS)
Primally Pure Plumping Mask (naturally occurring AHA’s from Hibiscus powder! get 10% off with discount code ELLEMULENOS)
PADS
LEAVE ON SOLUTION
Have you ever gotten a chemical peel? What was your experience? Overall, I recommend them if you have a trusted and experienced professional who can perform them. Do you have a favorite at-home peeling / exfoliating product? Let me know so I can try it out! I’m not going to lie though…the goop peel pads have been calling my name for a while. Thanks so much for reading!! I especially appreciate it during this time.
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